The Most Common Hand Planes and What They’re Used For: A Beginner’s Guide

If you're new to woodworking, hand planes can be confusing.

You start looking for a plane and quickly encounter terms such as No. 4, No. 5, No. 6 and No. 7.

Then there are block planes, smoothing planes, jack planes, jointer planes, rebate planes and router planes.

So which one are you actually supposed to buy?

The good news is that you don't need a plane for every job, and you certainly don't need to understand every type of plane before you can start woodworking.

A handful of common planes will cover a surprisingly large amount of work.

The trick is understanding what each plane is designed to do and, just as importantly, knowing which ones you can safely ignore when you're starting out.

Why Are Hand Planes Numbered?

One of the first things you'll notice when looking at traditional hand planes is that many of them are identified by a number.

A No. 4, for example, is generally a smoothing plane.

A No. 5 is generally a jack plane.

A No. 7 is a jointer plane.

These numbers come from established plane designs and are particularly associated with the traditional Stanley/Bailey range. Over time, the numbers became a convenient way for woodworkers to describe the size and type of plane.

You'll often see manufacturers and sellers using these familiar numbers even when the plane isn't made by Stanley.

So if someone says:

“I picked up a No. 5.”

They're usually talking about a jack plane, not simply a mysterious plane with the number 5 stamped on it.

Once you understand the numbering system, buying and discussing hand planes becomes considerably easier.

The No. 4 — Smoothing Plane

If there's one plane number you're likely to encounter when you start looking at hand planes, it's the No. 4.

The No. 4 is a smoothing plane.

It's relatively short compared with the larger bench planes and is designed primarily for producing a fine finished surface.

What is a No. 4 used for?

A No. 4 is typically used for:

• Smoothing timber.
• Removing fine plane marks.
• Preparing surfaces for finishing.
• Refining relatively flat boards.
• Taking very fine shavings.

The idea isn't to remove lots of material.

By the time you're using a No. 4, the timber should already be reasonably flat and close to its finished dimensions.

You're making those final improvements that turn a prepared surface into a really good one.

Is a No. 4 a good first plane?

It can be, but it isn't necessarily the most versatile first plane.

A beginner can certainly learn a great deal with a No. 4, and it's a very useful plane to have.

But if you're buying just one bench plane, there's a strong argument for choosing a No. 5 because it can handle heavier work as well as more general-purpose planing.

The No. 4 can then become the plane you reach for when you're concentrating on the final surface.

The No. 5 — Jack Plane

The No. 5 is probably the most useful all-round bench plane for someone starting out with hand tools.

It's commonly called a jack plane.

And the name makes sense.

It's a jack-of-all-trades.

The No. 5 is longer and heavier than a No. 4, but still compact enough to be comfortable for general woodworking.

What is a No. 5 used for?

A No. 5 can be used for:

• Flattening boards.
• Removing high spots.
• Preparing rough timber.
• Straightening edges.
• Reducing thickness.
• General surface preparation.
• Taking either relatively heavy or fine cuts.

That's an impressive range of jobs for one plane.

Change the blade setup and mouth opening, adjust the depth of cut and you can use the same plane for surprisingly different tasks.

Why is the No. 5 such a good beginner's plane?

Because you're unlikely to outgrow it quickly.

If you're building a small table, making shelves, working on a cabinet or simply practising with rough timber, the No. 5 can do a huge amount of the work.

It isn't perfect at everything.

But it is good at a lot of things.

And that's exactly what you want from your first serious hand plane.

The No. 5½ — Jack Plane / Fore Plane

The No. 5½ is essentially a larger and heavier version of the No. 5.

It's sometimes described as a heavy jack plane or fore plane.

The extra weight can be useful when you're removing more material from rough timber.

What is it used for?

A No. 5½ can be used for:

• Rough stock preparation.
• Flattening boards.
• Removing high spots.
• Taking heavier cuts.
• General preparation of larger pieces of timber.

It's particularly useful if you're working primarily with rough-sawn boards and doing a lot of the preparation by hand.

Do you need one?

Probably not as a beginner.

If you're starting with one bench plane, a No. 5 is generally the more obvious choice.

A No. 5½ becomes interesting when you already know that you enjoy hand-tool work and want something heavier for stock preparation.

The No. 6 — Fore Plane

The No. 6 sits between the No. 5 and No. 7 in size.

It's traditionally known as a fore plane.

It's long enough to help flatten timber while still being more manageable than the very large jointer planes.

What is a No. 6 used for?

It's particularly suited to:

• Flattening boards.
• Preparing rough timber.
• Removing high spots.
• Straightening reasonably long surfaces.
• General stock preparation.

You can think of it as occupying something of a middle ground.

It's longer than a No. 5 but doesn't have the same overall length as a No. 7 or No. 8.

Do beginners need a No. 6?

Not usually.

A No. 5 can cover many of the same jobs.

If you're building a collection of hand planes because you enjoy using them, the No. 6 can certainly earn its place.

But it's not a plane you need to rush out and buy.

The No. 7 — Jointer Plane

Now we get to the larger bench planes.

The No. 7 is commonly known as a jointer plane.

Its long sole is the key to what makes it useful.

When you're trying to create a straight edge, a short plane can follow the ups and downs already present in the timber.

A longer plane is better at bridging those imperfections.

What is a No. 7 used for?

A No. 7 is particularly useful for:

• Straightening long edges.
• Preparing boards for edge joining.
• Flattening larger surfaces.
• Establishing straight reference edges.
• Preparing timber for accurate joinery.

Imagine two boards that you're planning to glue together to make a wider panel.

The edges need to meet accurately.

A No. 7 gives you a long reference surface that helps you produce a genuinely straight edge.

Is a No. 7 too big for a beginner?

Not necessarily.

It's perfectly possible to learn with one.

The issue is more about whether you need one.

If you're mainly working with small pieces of timber, a No. 5 will probably be more useful.

If you're working on larger furniture and doing a lot of hand preparation, the No. 7 can become extremely valuable.

The No. 8 — Large Jointer Plane

The No. 8 is larger again.

It's another jointer plane, but the extra length and weight make it particularly suited to larger pieces of timber and heavy-duty work.

What is a No. 8 used for?

Typical jobs include:

• Straightening long edges.
• Preparing large boards.
• Flattening substantial surfaces.
• Heavy stock preparation.
• Producing long, straight reference surfaces.

For a small workshop, however, the No. 8 can be a lot of plane.

It's large, heavy and takes up more room than most beginners need.

Do you need one?

For most beginners:

No.

If you eventually find yourself regularly preparing large pieces of timber by hand, you may appreciate one.

But there are few beginner projects that require a No. 8.

The No. 9½ — Block Plane

The No. 9½ is a very different sort of plane.

It's a block plane, and it's considerably smaller than the bench planes we've just discussed.

This is the plane you can comfortably hold in one hand.

What is a No. 9½ used for?

It's excellent for:

• Trimming edges.
• Working end grain.
• Chamfering corners.
• Removing tiny amounts of material.
• Fitting components.
• Cleaning up joinery.
• General workshop adjustments.

This is one of those tools that can become permanently attached to your workshop routine.

You've made a drawer that's fractionally too tight?

Reach for the block plane.

Need to soften a sharp edge?

Block plane.

Need to trim a little end grain?

Block plane.

Need to take one very fine shaving from a piece of timber?

You guessed it.

Is a block plane worth buying?

Yes.

Even if you don't do much traditional hand-tool woodworking, a block plane is an extremely useful general-purpose tool.

It's small, relatively easy to handle and useful for countless little jobs.

The No. 60½ — Low-Angle Block Plane

The No. 60½ is another familiar block plane design.

It's a low-angle block plane, which makes it particularly useful when working across end grain.

The lower cutting angle can make difficult cuts easier and gives the plane a slightly different character from a conventional block plane.

What is it used for?

A No. 60½ is particularly useful for:

• End grain.
• Trimming.
• Fine adjustments.
• Chamfering.
• Cleaning up joinery.
• Small fitting jobs.

It's not essential if you already have a good block plane.

But if you regularly work with end grain, it's a very useful specialist version.

The No. 78 — Duplex Rebate Plane

Now we're moving into specialist planes.

The No. 78 is commonly known as a duplex rebate plane.

In American woodworking literature you'll also see the word “rabbet” used.

A rebate is essentially a step cut into the edge of a piece of timber.

What is a No. 78 used for?

It's designed for:

• Cutting rebates.
• Creating steps along edges.
• Preparing traditional joints.
• Making rebates for panels and backs.
• Working on certain cabinetmaking projects.

The No. 78 is interesting because it can be configured in different ways to help with different rebate-cutting situations.

Do you need one?

Probably not when you're starting out.

A router or other power tool can perform many of the same jobs.

But if you enjoy traditional hand-tool woodworking, a No. 78 can be a very useful addition.

The No. 71 — Router Plane

The No. 71 is another specialised plane and one that's worth knowing about even if you don't need one yet.

A router plane isn't used like a normal bench plane.

Instead, it has a cutter that works down into the timber and is used to control the depth of grooves, recesses and similar areas.

What is a No. 71 used for?

It's particularly useful for:

• Cleaning the bottoms of grooves.
• Controlling the depth of recesses.
• Refining mortises.
• Levelling areas of joinery.
• Producing consistent depths.

It's an extremely useful tool for traditional joinery.

But it's definitely not one of the first planes you need to buy.

The Scrub Plane — A Plane Without a Famous Number

Not every useful plane is defined by one of the familiar numbers.

A scrub plane is designed specifically for aggressive stock removal.

Instead of a relatively straight cutting edge, the blade has a pronounced curve.

That allows you to take a deep cut without the corners of the blade digging into the timber.

What is a scrub plane used for?

It's useful for:

• Removing lots of material quickly.
• Roughly flattening boards.
• Reducing thickness.
• Working with rough-sawn timber.

The surface it leaves behind isn't supposed to be perfect.

It's doing the rough work before another plane takes over.

Do you need one?

Probably not.

A No. 5 with an appropriately prepared blade can perform much of the same work.

A dedicated scrub plane becomes more attractive if you're regularly preparing rough timber by hand.

So What Do All These Numbers Mean?

If you've got this far, you may be wondering whether you actually need to remember all of them.

Probably not.

For a beginner, I'd remember these first:

• No. 4 — Smoothing Plane
  Think: fine finishing.
• No. 5 — Jack Plane
  Think: general purpose.
• No. 7 — Jointer Plane
  Think: long and straight.
• No. 9½ — Block Plane
  Think: small jobs and trimming.

Those four will cover an enormous amount of woodworking.

The other planes become relevant as your projects and skills develop.

Which Plane Should You Buy First?

If you're starting from scratch, I'd keep things simple.

Option 1: One Plane

Get a No. 5 jack plane.

It is probably the best single bench plane to learn with.

You can use it for rougher work, general preparation and, with the right setup, reasonably fine work too.

Add a block plane later.

Option 2: Two Planes

Get a No. 5 jack plane and a No. 9½ block plane.

That gives you a very capable combination.

The No. 5 handles the bigger jobs.

The block plane handles the small ones.

Option 3: Three Planes

Add a No. 4 smoothing plane.

Now you've got:

• No. 5 — general work.
• No. 4 — fine finishing.
• No. 9½ — trimming and small adjustments.

For many small workshops, that's an extremely capable collection.

You can make a lot of furniture with those three planes.

What About a No. 7?

If you're doing a lot of hand-tool work with larger boards, the No. 7 becomes very attractive.

But don't buy one simply because you've been told a “proper” woodworking shop needs a jointer plane.

Think about what you're actually making.

If your projects involve:

• Large tabletops.
• Long cabinet components.
• Wide boards.
• Lots of edge joining.

then a No. 7 can be extremely useful.

If you're making:

• Boxes.
• Small shelves.
• Small tables.
• Toys.
• Picture frames.
• Small cabinets.

you may find a No. 5 perfectly adequate.

Vintage or New?

Another question you'll encounter once you start looking at hand planes is whether to buy new or second-hand.

There are advantages to both.

Older planes can be excellent tools, and the familiar numbered designs are widely available on the second-hand market.

But don't assume that every old plane is a bargain.

Before buying a used plane, check:

• Is the body free from serious cracks?
• Is the sole reasonably sound?
• Is the blade usable?
• Are the handles intact?
• Does the adjustment mechanism work?
• Are any important parts missing?
• Is there excessive rust or pitting?

A cheap plane that needs hours of restoration isn't necessarily cheaper than one that's ready to use.

On the other hand, restoring an old plane can be a satisfying project in its own right.

Just don't confuse restoring a plane with learning to use one.

If your main goal is woodworking, a plane that is ready to work may be the better choice.

The Blade Matters More Than the Number

It's easy to get caught up in plane numbers.

But there's something far more important than whether your plane says No. 4, No. 5 or No. 7.

The blade needs to be sharp.

A beautifully made plane with a blunt blade won't perform well.

A basic plane with a properly sharpened blade can produce excellent results.

That's why sharpening is such an important companion skill to learning how to use hand planes.

If you're struggling to push a plane through timber, don't automatically assume you need a different plane.

Check the blade first.

It may simply need sharpening or a better setup.

You Don't Need Every Plane

This is probably the most important lesson for a beginner.

Once you start looking at hand planes, it's very easy to become fascinated by them.

There are beautiful old tools.

There are specialist planes for almost every imaginable job.

And there's always another plane that someone will tell you is essential.

But collecting planes isn't the same thing as learning woodworking.

A No. 5 jack plane that you understand, maintain and use regularly is far more valuable than five specialist planes sitting on a shelf.

Learn what your existing plane can do.

Learn how to sharpen it.

Learn how to adjust the cut.

Learn how to read the grain.

Then, when you encounter a job that your current tools genuinely aren't suited to, look for the plane that solves that particular problem.

That's a much better way to build a collection.

Quick Reference: The Most Common Hand Planes

The priority ratings aren't saying which planes are “best”.

They're simply a guide to how useful each type is likely to be when you're starting out.

A Simple Beginner's Plane Collection

If you're wondering where all of this leaves you, here's the simple answer.

You don't need a workshop full of planes.

Start with a No. 5 jack plane.

Add a No. 9½ block plane when you want something small and versatile for trimming and fitting.

Then consider a No. 4 smoothing plane when you're ready to concentrate on producing fine finished surfaces.

After that, let your projects dictate what comes next.

If you're regularly working on long boards, consider a No. 7.

If you're doing traditional joinery, a No. 71 or No. 78 might eventually make sense.

If you're constantly preparing rough-sawn timber, perhaps a scrub plane or No. 5½ would be useful.

There's no need to buy them all at once.

Final Thoughts

Hand planes can look complicated when you first start exploring them.

A No. 4 doesn't immediately tell you that it's a smoothing plane.

A No. 5 doesn't tell you that it's probably the most useful general-purpose bench plane for a beginner.

And a No. 7 certainly doesn't look like the obvious tool for making a straight edge until you understand why its long sole matters.

But once you learn the basic numbering system, the whole subject becomes much easier.

Remember the big three:

• No. 4 — smoothing.
• No. 5 — general purpose.
• No. 7 — jointing and long, straight work.

And don't forget the little one:

No. 9½ — block plane for all those small jobs.

That's enough knowledge to get you started.

You can add the specialist planes later, when you have a genuine reason to need them.

Because just like the rest of your workshop, your collection of hand planes doesn't need to be complete.

It just needs to contain the tools that help you make the things you want to make.