How to Use Bench Dogs: The Complete Guide to Workholding

What Are Bench Dogs?

Bench dogs are cylindrical or square pegs that fit into holes drilled into your workbench top. Used in pairs — one in the bench dog hole of your vise, one in the bench top — they create a clamping system that holds workpieces securely while you plane, chisel, rout, or sand. They're one of the oldest and most effective workholding solutions in woodworking, and once you start using them, you'll wonder how you ever managed without them.

Types of Bench Dogs

Before you start, it helps to know what you're working with:

• Round bench dogs — The most common type. They rotate in the hole, which makes them easy to adjust but can cause slight slippage under heavy lateral load.
• Square bench dogs — More traditional, they resist rotation and provide a firmer grip. Common in classic European-style benches.
• Plastic vs. metal vs. wooden — Wooden dogs are traditional and won't damage plane blades if you accidentally run over them. Metal dogs are more durable. Plastic dogs are affordable and widely available.
• Spring-loaded dogs — Feature a small spring that keeps them raised at the correct height without needing to be manually set each time.

Setting Up Your Bench Dog Holes

Bench dog holes are typically 3/4 inch (19mm) or 20mm in diameter and spaced 4 inches (100mm) apart in a row running along the length of the bench. The spacing should match the travel of your front vise so that at least one hole in the bench top always aligns with the dog hole in the vise jaw.

If you're drilling your own holes, use a drill press for accuracy and ensure the holes are perfectly vertical. Angling them very slightly (1–2°) toward the vise can help the dogs grip the workpiece more firmly under pressure.

How to Use Bench Dogs Step by Step

1. Open your front vise wide enough to accommodate your workpiece plus a little extra.
2. Insert a bench dog into the vise jaw hole — raise it to the height of your workpiece.
3. Place your workpiece on the bench against the vise dog.
4. Insert a second bench dog into the bench top hole closest to the far end of your workpiece — again, raise it to workpiece height.
5. Close the vise until both dogs grip the workpiece firmly. The workpiece is now held flat on the bench surface, face-up, with no clamps in the way.
6. Work freely across the entire surface — plane, sand, carve, or rout without obstruction.

Getting the Height Right

This is the most common mistake beginners make. The bench dogs should be raised to just below the surface of your workpiece — typically 1–2mm below the top face. If they're too high, they'll interfere with your plane or sander. If they're too low, they won't grip effectively. Spring-loaded dogs make this much easier to dial in consistently.

Using Bench Dogs for Different Tasks

Hand Planing

This is where bench dogs truly shine. With the workpiece held flat and face-up, you can plane with the grain across the full length of a board without it moving. Apply firm vise pressure — the dogs will hold even under the considerable force of a hand plane.

Routing

Bench dogs are excellent for routing operations on flat panels. Because there are no clamps above the surface, your router can travel freely. Use a stop block at the far end if you need to prevent the workpiece shifting laterally.

Sanding and Finishing

Holding a board for sanding is often awkward with traditional clamps. Bench dogs keep the workpiece flat and stable, letting you sand right to the edges without the board rocking or sliding.

Chiselling and Carving

For chopping mortises or carving, bench dogs hold the workpiece firmly against the mallet blows. Position the work so the dog is close to where you're striking to minimise flex.

Tips and Tricks for Better Results

• Use a planing stop as a complement — A simple wooden batten screwed to the bench near the tail vise can act as a stop for face planing without needing the vise at all.
• Add leather or rubber pads — Gluing a small piece of leather or rubber to the face of your bench dogs increases grip and prevents marring on finished surfaces.
• Work with the grain — When hand planing, always plane in the direction of the grain to avoid tearout. Bench dogs make it easy to flip and reposition the board quickly.
• Don't overtighten — Excessive vise pressure can bow thin boards. Snug is enough — the friction of the bench surface does a lot of the work.
• Use a sacrificial board — When working near the edge of a workpiece, place a scrap board of the same thickness alongside it so both dogs bear evenly.

Bench Dogs vs. Other Workholding Methods

Bench dogs aren't the only workholding solution, but they're often the most convenient for flat work. Compared to F-clamps or quick-grip clamps, they keep the entire top surface clear. Compared to a planing stop alone, they provide two-directional restraint. For complex shapes, curved pieces, or vertical work, you'll still want holdfasts, clamps, or a leg vise — but for the majority of flat panel and board work, bench dogs are hard to beat.

Maintaining Your Bench Dogs

Wooden bench dogs can be waxed lightly to help them slide smoothly in the holes. Metal dogs should be kept clean and free of rust — a light coat of paste wax works well. Check periodically that the holes haven't worn oval over time; if they have, a wooden dog can be shimmed or replaced easily.

Ready to Upgrade Your Workholding?

If you're working with a portable workbench or a bench top system, bench dogs are just as effective — and in some cases even more versatile. Our HDS Hold Down System is designed to work seamlessly with bench dog setups, giving you professional-grade workholding without a traditional full-size bench. Explore the range and see how it can transform the way you work.